Une petite carte non-exhaustive des facettes musquées

Dans la longue liste des matières utilisées par la parfumerie pour nous faire fondre, certaines en particulier ont le goût de “j’y reviens”. Rassurez-vous, je ne vais pas faire l’apologie de l’ethyl-maltol, même si on nous assure “que ça sent vraiment trop bon, ah ah ah” (hi hi hi). Je veux plutôt parler aujourd’hui d’une autre famille prestidigitatrice au fort pouvoir envoûtant : les muscs. La semaine que je leur avais consacrée en témoignera. Au-delà des fantasmes qui les dépeignent presque comme des phéromones aux pouvoirs aphrodisiaques, il est indéniable que ces matières portent en elles une plénitude fondamentalement attirante. Elles donnent de l’épaisseur et de la projection à une aura que l’on imagine alors comme scintillante et vibrante.

Il existe aujourd’hui un grand nombre de molécules dites “musquées”. Le qualificatif de “blancs” qui leur est souvent adjoint me semble désormais un peu dépassé, car leur association avec l’univers du propre est surtout circonstancielle et échoue à rendre compte de la complexité de ces notes. Elles ont parfois l’air timide — leur détection n’est pas toujours aisée — mais elles sont pleines de ressources, et méritent comme bien d’autres matières d’être pensées et utilisées dans les compositions autrement que comme des cache-misère à moindre coût et à effet maximal.

L’ambivalence de ces molécules interroge. Rassurantes et presque régressives, elles semblent pourtant vibrer rageusement dans la torpeur de leur épaisseur sourde. C’est une mélodie dont le volume augmente petit à petit, jusqu’à envahir l’espace, vos oreilles, votre tête et tous vos membres. Les muscs sonnent comme une envie de s’élever, de se propulser, de se lier avec d’autres corps, d’autres formes pour faire naître qui sait… la beauté ? Pour vous donner un petit aperçu des sensations que l’on peut associer aux muscs, la carte ci-dessous recense quelques-uns des qualificatifs employés pour les décrire ainsi qu’une sélection de molécules correspondantes.

Exemples de facettes de différents muscs
Les descripteurs musqués

Attention : cette carte est bien entendu partielle. Elle ne représente pas tous les descripteurs employés pour qualifier ces molécules. Par ailleurs, la position d’un musc sur le schéma n’induit pas l’absence de facettes en commun avec d’autres. C’est le cas par exemple du Musc Cétone qui pourrait aussi être placé en “animal”. J’ai volontairement omis de présenter la facette “poudrée” sur ce schéma, tout simplement parce qu’elle est très souvent employée pour décrire les muscs ; ils ont presque tous un effet “poudré”.

Pour vous faire une idée du pouvoir et de l’intérêt des muscs, ouvrez un vieux flacon de My Sin de Lanvin et constatez qui, du diamant en fusion (auto-proclamé “premier gourmand aphrodisiaque”) ou du chat noir, a le pouvoir de faire sombrer votre esprit dans une lubricité inconvenante. Autrement, vous pouvez aussi venir sentir la sélection ci-dessus et une série de parfums pour les illustrer le 19 novembre prochain lors de la rencontre olfactive qui leur sera dédiée ! Les inscriptions se passent ici. Et pour tout le reste, je réponds à vos questions en commentaires !

182 commentaires

  1. Merci Juliette pour ton article. C’est si agréable de te lire…. Je me sens toujours moins bête après !
    Les muscs… vaste sujet que j’ai hâte d’aborder lors de la ta rencontre du 19 novembre.
    Le musc … Un fantôme pour moi. On s’aime et on se déteste. Fuis-moi je te suis, suis-moi je te fuis… Étrange et complexe relation…

    1. Bonjour Magali,

      Merci pour ton message. Je comprends tes difficultés avec les muscs. Il faut reconnaître que c’est vraiment une famille difficile à aborder compte tenu des anosmies partielles ou totales que certains d’entre nous peuvent rencontrer. Mais la bonne nouvelle, c’est qu’avec un peu de persévérance et d’entraînement, les difficultés de détection disparaissent sur certains. Nous en parlerons le 19 alors !

  2. Bonjour !
    Bien d’accord avec vous sur l’aspect un peu dépassé et limitatif du “blanc” pour caractériser les muscs. Sinon, ajouter peut-être que L’Helvétolide et la Romandolide figurent — chose rare — dans les muscs à note de tête (ce qui ne les empêche nullement de jouer les prolongations, bien évidemment).

    1. Cher Nicolaï,

      Vous avez raison, il est rare de voir les muscs au premier plan. Mais il me semble d’ailleurs que l’Habanolide est aussi dans ce cas-là. C’est particulièrement visible dans la Cologne Indélébile des EDPFM d’ailleurs, derrière l’envol petit grain et néroli, on saisit presque tout de suite cette bouffée de muscs juste au moment où le parfum se dépose sur la peau.

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